1. Tools L>R: 1/2″ & 3/8″ drive torque wrench, 1/2″drive ratchet, 3″ & 6″ 3/8″ drive extensions, 3/8″ drive ratchet, 13mm & 17mm 3/8″ drive sockets, 30mm (1 3/16″) 1/2″ drive socket, Pin alignment tool that is not a punch, 1/4″ straight blade & #3 screwdriver, 13mm Box end wrench, 13mm combination wrench, Needle nose pliers, Cotter pin extractor, Ball peen hammer.

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2. Tools: OTC 8150 Large Pitman (drop) Arm Puller, 22mm socket 1/2″ drive, 1/2″ drive ratchet.

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3. Jack up one side of the vehicle and place a jack stand under the front Beam on that side. Note: the jack stands are placed inward slightly to miss the grease fittings located on the back of the Beam. Lower the jack slightly, to put the weight of the vehicle on the jack stand. Now shake the vehicle, to be sure it is secure on the jack stand. Move to the other side and repeat the procedure.

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3.a With a 1/4″ straight blade screwdriver, remove the two screws from the steering column cap. This allowed me just enough room to get the steering flange off the Steering box.

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4. Note: I elected not to separate the Drag link from the Drop arm. First let’s remove the Drop arm. If you can’t get the drop arm off, the Steering box is not coming out. Note: I had been spraying all the fasteners with Rust Penetrant for a couple of weeks in advance in preparation for removing the Steering box.

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5. Use needle nose pliers straighten the ends of the Cotter pin.

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6. Remove the Cotter pin with the Extractor tool or Needle nose pliers and a Hammer.

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7. Use 30mm socket with 1/2″ drive ratchet. Remove the Drop arm Nut.

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7a. An Adjustable Spanner can be used. But keep in mind, this Nut can have as much as 80 Ft/lbs of torque on it and be rusted in place. I had been spraying the fasteners with rust penetrant for 2 weeks in advance. Don’t round the nut off, go beg borrow or buy a 30mm (1 3/16″) socket.

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8. Note: the Alignment marks on the Drop arm shaft and the Drop arm.

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9. Position the OTC 8150 puller.

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10. Pull the Drop arm with the otc 8150 puller, 22mm socket and 1/2″ drive ratchet. Remember I presoaked for two weeks.
Note: a 1/2″ Impact driver works best for those stubborn arms. In conjunction with the old plumbers trick to break the rust ring.

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11. Remove the Steering box flange, Pinch bolt and Nut, using Two 13mm wrenches.

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12. Steering box flange Pinch Bolt completely removed. Push the Steering coupler with flange straight up. It may take some prying?
Position it to the right of the Steering box shaft.

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13. Using 17mm socket, 6″ extension and 3/8″ drive Ratchet. Remove the three steering box mounting bolts at 10,2, and 5 o’clock.
Loosen the mounting bolt located at 7 o’clock until it can easily be removed by hand.
The loose bolt at 7 o’clock will stop the steering box from falling out on your head. Stranger things have happened.

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14. With one hand supporting the Steering box remove the last mounting bolt. Push the Coupler with flange up out of the way, rest it on the right half of the shaft if you have to. Now pull the Steering box straight out.

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15. Steering box removed.

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16. Clean the Steering box mating surface and area around it. This will make installation easier as well as leak detection in the future.

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17. Compare the New steering box to the old one. Mounting bolt holes in the same locations, Worm and Peg shaft splines are the same.

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18. Note the rubber Worm spindle cap with the nipple on it and the raised Centering mark cast into the Steering box. These where added June 1971. The New box is missing this and the Red fill plug.

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19. Note the Nipple on the Worm spindle cap for center is at 9 o’clock and the relief for the pinch bolt in the Worm shaft is at 12 0’clock.

wolfgangint wrote:
NOTE: There are two different input shafts on these steering boxes with the detent 90 degrees off. If your steering wheel spokes are 90 degrees off you will correct that by removing the mount bolts from the rubber coupler and repositioning it 90 degrees.


Spray and clean the Worm spindle splines and Gently pry the Worm spindle cap up high enough to get your fingers under it and pull it off, carefully.

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20. Worm spindle cap installation.
Rotate the Worm shaft Clockwise until it stops, make a mark in alignment with the Centering hump cast into the steer box case.
Rotate the Worm shaft Counter clockwise until it stops and make a mark aligned with the Centering hump.

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21. Now turn the Worm shaft Clockwise half of the rotation from stop to stop. This is where you end up. Note the Centering hump is located in the middle of the two marks. Grease the seal that the Worm spindle cap will ride on.

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22. Align the Worm spindle cap and push it on with your fingers.

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23. Time for some Steering box lube. What ever you choose you will need 9 2/3 oz (285.87 ml).
More Lube information located here.
Link = Steering Box Lube

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24. Injected using this multi fit nozzle I got from my Friendly Local Auto Parts Store.

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25. Piercing the air bubbles all the time.

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26. 20 minutes later, full to the brim.

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27. Ok time for lunch. Shrimp fried rice made by my lovely wife, with a salad of Iceberg lettuce, Union slices, Julienned carrots, lightly drizzled with The olive bar black currant balsamic, with a splash of Red wine vinegar, topped with Parmesan Romano & Asiago cheese. Paired with Lemon water. For desert a half a Watermelon. Eaten with a couple of AFM flap opening tools.

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28. Back from lunch and my afternoon nap. 2 hrs have gone by and the Steering box lube is still at full brim.

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29. Note the tension Spring and O-ring on the fill plug.

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30. The Grey line indicates the amount I used of the 500ml bottle. With some burping and spillage waste.

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31. Fasteners laid out with Anti-Sieze applied.

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31.a Slide the Steer box back in, install one of the bolts loosely to hold it in place.

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32. Note this is misalignment. The Steering flange will only go on one way.

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33. Draw a line down the center of the Flange. It makes it easier to line up the Flange with the splines on the Worm drive shaft.

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34. Use the bolt as a visual aid to check alignment.
Slide the Flange down and use the Alignment tool or (#3 screwdriver) to align the hole. Followed by the bolt.
CAUTION the bolt must go in by hand or Damage to the Worm drive splines and or the bolt will occur.
NO hammering no Screwing it in with a socket. Have some patients here. You will find that aligned spot where the bolt just slides in.

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35. Flange bolt and nut installed.

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36. With 13mm wrench, 13mm socket, 3″ extension, 3/8″ drive torque wrench. Torque the Pinch bolt to 18 ft/lbs.

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37. Using 17mm socket, 6″ extension and 3/8″ drive torque wrench. Install the rest of the Steering box mounting bolts and torque to 25-36 ft/lbs.

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38. Line up the marks on the Drop arm shaft (peg shaft) and the Drop arm. As I elected not to remove the Drag link. The easiest way to do this is to turn the steering coupler with one hand and slip the drop arm on with the other. Coat the threads and face of the drop arm with Anti-Sieze.

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39. Install the Drop arm nut, with the 30mm (1 3/16″) Socket and 1/2″ drive torque wrench, torque the nut to 58 ft/lbs.
Look to see if the Cotter key hole is lined up with the valley in the Castle nut.
No, set the torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs and slightly tighten the nut until the Cotter key can be dropped in.
If you reach 80 ft/lbs and still no Cotter pin hole. Take the nut off and start over.

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40. Drop a new 3mm X 25mm Cotter key in from the top and bend the ends over to form the shape of an anchor.

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41. With a 1/4″ straight blade screwdriver, install the two screws from the steering column cap.

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42. While you have the grease gun out give the five grease fittings on the front Beam a few pumps. Remember I said to note where the jack stand was.

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Tcash

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